So most of the pre-made battery boxes that you can buy are complete shit, but they are a good starting point for making an awesome battery box!

What you will want is:

A DC to DC charger, preferably with solar input, so the C-Tek D250S or if you want to go lithium the D250SE.

A low voltage cut out, to prevent you from over discharging your battery and damaging it it, I went with the Projecta LVD30.

A pure sine inverter… anything cheap from ebay will do the trick 1200w peak with 600w continuous rating will do you for most applications.

A 50A circuit breaker, this is to stop the whole thing incinerating itself should something short out, the LVD30 does have a fuse for memory, so this was probably unnecessary

A cheap battery box of your choice, some spare Anderson connectors, and a few extra cigarette lighter sockets if you find yourself always running out.

The whole thing is pretty simple, route the main battery to the main “on/off” switch on the battery box, then from there to the 50A circuit breaker and then from there to the low voltage cutout.

From the low voltage cut out you can run you connectors to the Anderson plugs and cigarette lighter sockets, I used the incorporated thermal cutout in the battery box for the cigarette lighter sockets, and the included two fuse holder for the Anderson plugs.

The D250 occupies two Anderson connectors, one for the DC input from the car, and one from the optional solar panel, these are wired directly, as are the connections to the battery, the temperature sensor just sits snugly beside the battery.

I used the included foam that protected the lead acid battery to pad the battery into the battery box, it makes for a much more robust unit. The whole thing works like a charm.